aden- – “in compound words, signifying a gland, as adenophorus, having glandular pedicels.”

Adenogynusaum – adenogy’nus -a -um – “having a glandular ovary”.

Adherent – “joined to, as one organ of a flower to a different organ.”

Adhesion – “union of different organs.”

Adiantifoliusaum – Adiantifo’lius -a -um – “having l. like a maiden-hair fern.”

Admirabilisise – Admira’bilis -is -e – “to be admired.”

Adpressusaum – Adpres’sus -a -um – “adpressed; pressed against.”

Adscendens – Adscen’dens – “ascending; half-erect, or curving upwards from a nearly prostrate base.”

Adsurgens – Adsur’gens – “rising erect.”

Adult – “Full-grown, or of a full-grown plant.”

Aduncusaum – adun’cus -a -um – “hooked.”

Adventitious – Having a different mode of origin from the normal, as roots borne on a stem or on a part of the root which has laready produced roots; or shoots produced from roots or from the callus covering a wound.”

Acclimatization – “The attempt to inure plants to a climate different from that of which they are native. There is no evidence that such attempts have been successful, at least so far as rendering tender plants less susceptible to injury by low temperatures are concerned. The most that appears possible is to select out of a species individuals more gardy than the majority and perhaps from the extremey range of their natural distribution and by breeding from them raise a more hardy race (or conversely one less liable to damage by extreme heat) than the greater number of the individuals comprising the species. Avoidance of damage may sometimes be secured by growing plants under glass for the first few years of their existence until they are larger enough for their upper parts to be above the frost line, but this applies only to woody plants.”

Accrescent – accres’cent – “increasing in size after flowering.”

Accumbent – accum’bent – “lying against anything, as distinct from incumbent, lying upon it.”

Acephalusaum – aceph’alus -a -um – “without a head.”

Aceroides – aceroi’des – “Maple-like.”

Acerosusaum – Acero’sus -a -um – “needle-like, needle-pointed.”

Acetarious – “relating to salads.”

Achene – “small, dry, hard fruit that does not open, 1-seeded.”

Achlamydeous – “without calyx or corolla.”

Acmopetala – Acmopet’ala – “having anvil-shaped petals.”

Acropetal – “developing from the apex, the oldest part being at the base, as in the leaves of a current year’s shoot.”

Actinidiaceae – “Doctyledons. A family of about 40 species of deciduous twining shrubs, natives of E. and S.E Asia from Japan to Java and N. India. Characters of the genus Actinidia. Perhaps allied to Dilleniaceae in which the genus has sometimes been placed and to Ternstroemiaceae which has also accomodated it; probably related also to Eucryphiacaea. Clematoclethra and Saurauja are also included in this Family, removed from Dilleniaceae.”

Actinomyces – “A small genus of fungi commonly found in the soil, some species of which cause injury to root crops, A. Scabies being the cause of Potato Common Scab.”

Aculeatusaum – Aculea’tus -a -um – “aculeate; armed with prickles.”

Aculeolatusaum – Aculeola’tus -a -um – “armed with small prickles.”

Acumen – “an acute point as of a leaf.”

Acuminatusaum – Acumina’tus -a -um – “draw out to a long, narrow point.”

Acutusaum – Acu’tus -a – um – “short-pointed.”

Acyclic – “having the parts of the flower, or some of them, spirally arranged, as in Ranunculus, where all parts are spirally arranged, or Magnolia where stamens and carpels only are so arranged.”

Grafting And Budding:

A graft is a union between two plants, the roots and lower stem of one plant (which is known as the ‘stock’ or ‘root stock’) uniting with the shoot of another plant (the scion), so that they grow together as one. The main role of grafting in horticulture is the propagation of trees and shrubs where one or more of the following difficulties prevent easier means of producing planting material.

Varieties which root slowly or not at all from cuttings or by layering. Varieties which do not seed. Varieties which do not breed true from seed. Varieties which are unsatisfactory when grown on their own roots.

A mystique has grown up about grafting, but the principle is very simple. The stock and the scion must be related, as a general rule the chance of a successful union increases in direct proportion to the closeness of the relationship. Next, there must be physical close contact, it is the thin living layer below the bark which has to knit together. Timing is important, the plants should be just starting to grow after their winter set, and the union or joint must be protected. This calls for binding with raffia, plastic tape or an elastic tie and then covering the whole area with grafting wax. This will prevent both drying out and infection from air-borne spores.

Although the principle is simple, a large number of systems have evolved over the centuries, saddle grafting, rind grafting, approach grafting, splice grafting and so on. The most popular method is whip and tongue grafting. The stock and scion should be approximately the same thickness, remove the binding material once the graft has taken and new growth has appeared.

Cacti are the easiest group of plants to graft. All you have to do is cut the base of the scion in the form of a V. Cut a corresponding V at the top of the stock and push the two grafts together. Push a few pins or thorns through the union and leave the rest to nature.

Commercial Roses are generally propagated by budding, a form of grafting which is carried out in midsummer rather than early spring. A bud or ‘eye’ of the selected variety is inserted into a T-shaped cut made in the stem of the rootstock, close to the ground for a bush or some distance up the stem for a standard.

Hardening off:

Plants raised indoors or in a greenhouse have tender tissues, suddenly moving them indoors in spring means a transition to colder conditions and drying winds for which they are not prepared for. The result of this shock is either a severe check or death of the specimen, depending on the tenderness of the variety.

To avoid this problem there must be a gradual acclimatisation to the harsher conditions to be faced outdoors, a process known as hardening off. Begin by increasing the ventilation during the day in the greenhouse, after which the plants should be moved to a cold frame. Keep the lights closed at night for several days, then steadily increase the ventilation until the plants are continuously exposed to the outside air for a few days before planting out.

Watch the plants during hardening off. If the leaves turn blue or blotchy and growth stops you will have to slow down the process.

About the Author

I have been involved with the Do-It-Yourself and Gardening industry for over 30 years. So I think now is the time to spread the word a bit about Gardener London, tradesmen within companies operating in the UK.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/
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Tidy borders

Many annuals and herbaceous perennials begin to look tatty, brown and soggy at this time of year. Cut them back and add to the compost heap or they will encourage disease. Some herbaceous perennials may still be providing late colour, while many seed heads dry into attractive forms that will offer interest throughout the winter as well as food and cover for wildlife.

Clean out the greenhouse

One of the main jobs at this time of year is to clear out the greenhouse, wash pots, trays and containers, and clean and repair tools before putting them away for the winter. Clean the greenhouse thoroughly with disinfectant so that pests and disease do not have the opportunity to hibernate safely until spring.

Prepare your soil for next year

Carry on with the winter digging until the soil is too hard – use organic matter such as compost, manure and leaf mould to replace any nutrients removed during the growing season.

The RHS recommend adding a layer of organic matter and digging it in by turning over spadefuls so it is buried below the surface. If your soil is thin or heavy clay, just fork it over lightly now to avoid damaging the structure.

Planting

Plant bare-rooted trees, shrubs, hedging and roses as well as fruit trees and bushes. The plants are dormant but there is still enough warmth in the soil to allow them to become established before the harsh weather sets in.
Taking time to prepare the soil properly at this stage will pay dividends for years to come. After digging the hole or trench for your new plant dig in plenty of organic matter. Soak the root ball in water for an hour and plant to the same depth as before (look where the stem becomes darker), stake on the windward side to prevent rubbing, fill the hole and firm well. Mulch with a layer of organic matter and keep well watered.

Now is also the perfect time to plant soft fruits such as raspberries, gooseberries, blackberries and currants. Plant in well prepared soil enriched with plenty of compost or well rotted farmyard manure, to the same depth as they were before. Blackcurrants, however, should be planted lower than usual in the planting hole with 5cm of stem below ground level as this encourages new growth from the base of the plant.

Rake fallen leaves

Fallen leaves should be raked regularly during the Autumn. A layer of leaves over lawned areas or borders stops light and air getting to plants and provides dark, damp conditions where slugs, snails and fungal diseases thrive. Leaves can be used to create the most wonderfully nutritious compost, or leaf mould, although avoid rose leaves, which often carry infection, and evergreen leaves, which take too long to rot down.

Bulbs and Flowers

Now is time to finish planting spring bulbs such as narcissi and crocuses if you have not done so already.
Many gardeners recommend planting tulip bulbs now as the cooler soil helps to avoid fungal disease. Bulbs can be used to fill gaps in beds and borders, in pots and containers, under shrubs and trees or naturalised in grass or woodland. If you are planting them in borders, groups of 10 – 25 between perennials give the best effect.

Bedding

Brighten your borders, hanging baskets and containers with winter bedding such as pansies, violas, primroses and cyclamen.

Perennials

Divide hearty perennials such as daylilies, Michaelmas daisies and golden rod. Cut them down to 4″, dig them up and divide carefully. If your soil is heavy clay, leave this job until springtime. All other perennials are also best left until the spring, especially peonies which dislike being split in cold weather and grasses.

Prune tall shrubs

Pruning can be carried out from now on throughout the dormant season. Once the leaves have fallen it is easier to see the overall shape and prune accordingly. Leave tender plants, evergreens and prunus varieties (ornamental cherries, plums and almonds) until spring. Prune tall shrubs by about half to protect them against wind rock.

Vegetables and herbs

Now is the time to plant garlic – sow individual cloves into well prepared ground so just the tip shows. Plant 15cm apart in rows 30 cm apart and the should be ripe by next June. Shallots can also be planted in the same way.

Plant broad beans and sow early peas such as Feltham First for early crops.

Protect cabbages and Brussels sprouts against pigeons with netting. Continue to harvest carrots, leeks, Brussels sprouts, carrots and parsnips (after a frost) as you need them for the kitchen.

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Fallowing:

In the old days farmers used to fallow fields occasionally, leaving them bare for a whole season to allow bacteria to build up fertility and to allow the weather to improve the soil structure. This practice has greatly declined in agriculture and has almost no place in gardening, although the vegetable plot is mainly bare in winter and so it can be considered a short term fallow.

Despite the absence of true fallowing, a special form of fallow is widely used in the vegetable garden. Some forms of soil-born troubles such as, club root and white rot can live in the ground for several years. Following an attack, the land must be at least part-fallowed – that is, no susceptible plant must be grown on it for the period specified in textbooks.

Forcing:

Forcing is the process of inducing growth, flowering or fruiting earlier than normal. To do this there must be a change in the environment, and gentle heat is the most usual stimulant, the factors which will force one plant may fail miserably with another plant.

Spring bulbs are forced by keeping the planted bowls cool (40 degrees Fahrenheit) and in darkness for about Eight weeks before moving to warmer conditions 50 degrees F. and then 60 – 70 degrees F. Daffodil bulbs for extra-early flowering are prepared by keeping in cold storage for several weeks in late summer.

Rhubarb, Seakale and Chicory are forced by being kept in the dark and at a temperature rising from an initial 50 degrees F. to 60 degrees F. as growth progresses. Many other plants in pots can be forced at a similar temperature, but require light conditions in a greenhouse or cold frame. Examples include Potatoes, Strawberries, French Beans, Roses, Spiraeas and Azaleas.

Forking:

A garden fork is not really a digging tool, although it can sometimes be easier to dig a heavy soil with a fork rather than a spade. Forking is really a method of cultivation – lumps are broken down by hitting them with the tines of the fork and the surface roughly levelled by dragging the tines across the surface crust, but you must be careful not to damage surface roots.

The garden fork has several purposes, including moving compost, lifting Potatoes and aerating lawns.

Fumigating:

Fumigation is a method of destroying pests and/or disease organisms by means of a gas, vapour or smoke. It is almost always restricted to greenhouses and the usual applicator these days is a firework-like cone. Doors and ventilators must be closed after lighting or much of the benefit will be lost.

This is the last of the letter ‘F’ in my A – Z in my mini series to help the new gardeners of today, there is plenty more to come so keep in touch and up to date.

About the Author

A fantastic amount of my time is spent in my garden, but as I am getting older and things have become harder to do. I have decided to make use of a firm called Gardener London, up to now they have given me all the help and advice that I have asked for. I still do a bit of pottering around my own garden though.

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Dibbing:

Dibbing in is a simple and quicker planting technique than using a trowel. The standard dibber is a stout wooden or metal spike bought from a garden shop or made at home from an old spade handle. These dibbers are for large seedlings. For pot culture and for small seedlings outdoors use o pencil or dowel. The tip of the dibber should be rounded rather than sharply pointed.

Dibbing in (or dibbling) involves inserting the dibber sufficiently deeply into the soil so that the roots will fit comfortably. Place the plant into the hole and then firm the earth by re-inserting the dibber point about 1 – 2 inches away from the stem Move the dibber towards the plant in order to press the soil around the roots.

This is a good technique for planting vegetables which have been raised in a seed bed. Brassicas, such as Cabbages, Brussels Sprouts etc, are well known examples. It is also widely used for planting cuttings, but in all cases you must make sure that the hole is no deeper than necessary. The role of dibbing in is limited – use a trowel and not a dibber for large size planting material such as bulbs or tubers, and do not use a dibber in heavy, wet soil.

Disbudding:

In general, flower buds in the garden are allowed to develop and open naturally to provide the maximum display. For exhibitors however, and others interested in the size of individual blooms, the flower stems are disbudded. This calls for pinching out side buds as soon as they can be handled, leaving the central bud to develop into a large specimen to catch the eye of the judge or earn the envy of the neighbours. Chrysanthemums, Dahlias and Carnations are frequently treated in this way for show purposes. Many Hybrid Tea Roses produce more than one flower bud at the end of each shoot. With this flower it is nearly always desirable to seek maximum size, so disbudding of side shoots is recommended. Delay removing the side buds if you want to hold back flowering for the day of the show. If the Rose variety produces very full blooms which spoil badly in wet weather, reverse the process and pinch out the terminal bud so that the side buds develop.

Earthing Up:

There are several reasons for earthing up, the drawing of soil towards and around the stems. Potatoes are earthed up to avoid the tubers being exposed to light. When the haulm is about 9 inches high a draw hoe is used to pile loose soil against the stems to form a flat-topped ridge. The greens (Broccoli, Kale, Brussels Sprouts etc) are earthed up for a different reason – soil is drawn up around the stems of well developed plants to improve anchorage against high winds.

The stems of Celery and Leek are blanched by earthing up. This begins with Celery when it is about 1 foot high – with Leeks this is done in stages, the height being increased a little at a time by drawing dry soil around the stems.

Earthing up is important on the vegetable plot but it has a place in the herbaceous border. Shoots may appear prematurely during a mild spell in early spring, it is advisable to draw loose soil over them with a hoe so as to prevent damage by severe frosts which may come later.

About the Author

A fantastic amount of my time is spent in my garden, but as I am getting older and things have become harder to do. I have decided to make use of a firm called Gardener London, up to now they have given me all the help and advice that I have asked for. I still do a bit of pottering around my own garden though.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/

Explore Courses