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	<title>Edinburgh Garden School</title>
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		<title>Create a Garden That Children Will Enjoy</title>
		<link>http://www.edinburghgardenschool.com/2012/05/create-garden-that-children-will-enjoy/</link>
		<comments>http://www.edinburghgardenschool.com/2012/05/create-garden-that-children-will-enjoy/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 18 May 2012 18:11:54 +0000</pubDate>
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				<category><![CDATA[Articles]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[play house]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[wendy house]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.edinburghgardenschool.com/?p=1349</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[So many people worry about making their garden a fun and play orientated environment for their children. It can be hard to encourage children to get outside and play – and with all the health scares we see about our children daily it is no wonder we are concerned about them getting outside and being more active.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h4><font color=#336699>How to make your garden more child-friendly – use a Wendy house!</font></h4>
<p>So many people worry about making their garden a fun and play orientated environment for their children. It can be hard to encourage children to get outside and play – and with all the health scares we see about our children daily it is no wonder we are concerned about them getting outside and being more active.</p>
<p>Children love to be outside, but making your garden somewhere suitable for your children to play can be a difficult task. Here are some ideas for getting the children outside more, and adding features which will not only make the garden child friendly but also add a stylish and aesthetically pleasing touch.</p>
<p>Wendy houses can be a brilliant way of giving your child a place to play. Not only will it allow them to have their own space, but it will also give them somewhere to hide and shelter if it starts to rain. It will also keep their toys out of the weather, without you having to drag them in the house every time they finish playing with them.</p>
<p>Having a playhouse or Wendy house in the garden can be a perfect hideaway, and with the variety of beautifully hand-painted wooden playhouses available now – just like the one shown here from <a href="http://www.playhouses.co.uk/store/Wendy-Houses.html" target="_blank">Big Game Hunter’s playhouse shop</a> – they do not have to be an eyesore in your garden. You can almost look at them as a miniature shed for your child, although they are a lot more appealing to look at than a boring garden shed! A Wendy house is also a great place to develop the imaginative side of play – it can become a shop, a creative house for doing crafts in, an ice cream parlour or a tardis in one of Doctor Who’s adventures!</p>
<p>Cheap plastic is a thing of the past now there is such an extensive range of wooden toys and play equipment to choose from. As well as being more hard-wearing than plastic versions which can easily split and crack, wooden toys fit into the landscape of a garden so much better, and blend with a more natural look. They also look a lot more expensive than they are so will add a touch of class without breaking the bank. </p>
<p>Climbing frames, see-saws and wooden sandpits are all great ways of enhancing your garden – both to make them look good and also to give your children so many more reasons to be outside playing. The range of these things has increased, so they can be bought at lower prices – meaning you get a lot more for your money. </p>
<p>You may still feel that all this play equipment may dominate the garden – but a great way to incorporate a playhouse or climbing frame, is to carefully position it within the layout of trees or bushes that you may have. If you are planning to create a more leafy area in your garden do this with the children’s play things in mind. There is nothing better than having a playhouse concealed in amongst bushes and trees – it will give your children an even more magical feel to their playtime. Ultimately you will give them no reason to be inside and it will be almost impossible to drag them in at teatime or bedtime!</p>
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		<title>RHS Level 2 Question on Primary and Secondary Cultivation</title>
		<link>http://www.edinburghgardenschool.com/2012/05/rhs-level-2-question-on-primary-and-secondary-cultivation/</link>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 16 May 2012 12:32:19 +0000</pubDate>
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		<category><![CDATA[past exam papers]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[primary cultivation]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[RHS Level 2]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[secondary cultivation]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Primary cultivation involves operations, which cut and shatter the soil with relatively  deep penetrating tools (15 cm to 75 cm) and leave a rough surface texture.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>R2102 PLANT NUTRITION AND THE ROOT ENVIRONMENT Level 2 &#8211; Monday 27 June 2011</p>
<p><em>Q.2. State what is meant by the following terms: </p>
<p>‘primary cultivation’;<br />
secondary cultivation’. </p>
<p>Complete the table below by: </p>
<p>stating the season when EACH technique is carried out; </p>
<p>describing ONE negative effect of carrying out EACH technique at the wrong time of year. </p>
<p>Technique<br />
Season Negative effect </em></p>
<h4><font color=#339999>Sample Answers:</h4>
<p></font></p>
<p><em>State what is meant by the following terms: </p>
<p>‘primary cultivation’; </em></p>
<p>Primary cultivation involves operations, which cut and shatter the soil with relatively deep penetrating tools (15 cm to 75 cm) and leave a rough surface texture. It may include digging and preparation of the soil. It may include single or double digging, and may be carried out by a mechanical rotavator. During primary cultivation, the soil is inverted.    </p>
<p><em>secondary cultivation’. </em></p>
<p>Secondary cultivation involves operations, which pulverize, level, and firm the top 5 cm to 15 cm of soil.  Secondary cultivation is carried out to produce a fine seedbed or planting bed, ready for  sowing seed or planting.</p>
<p><em>Complete the table below by: </p>
<p>stating the season when EACH technique is carried out; </p>
<p>describing ONE negative effect of carrying out EACH technique at the wrong time of year. </p>
<p>Season<br />
Negative effect </em></p>
<p><strong><font color=#ccffff>Primary Cultivation </font></strong></p>
<p>Season – late autumn/winter or early spring</p>
<p>Negative Effects &#8211;  Primary cultivation should not be carried out when the soil is waterlogged or frozen, as this can damage the structure of the soil. Primary cultivation in late spring or summer can lead to excessive moisture loss. </p>
<p><strong><font color=#339999>Secondary Cultivation</font></strong></p>
<p>Season &#8211; spring or summer or autumn </p>
<p>Negative Effect &#8211;  secondary cultivation at the wrong time (for instance, during winter, when heavy rain or snow showers are possible, or when the soil is frozen can damage the soil strucutre, or cause collapse of surface tilth resulting in the formation of a ‘cap’. </p>
<p><strong><font color=#339999>For further information:</font></strong></p>
<p>http://apps.rhs.org.uk/advicesearch/profile.aspx?pid=202</p>
<h4><font color=#339999>Examiners&#8217; Comments:</font></h4>
<p>a)i) Those candidates who were able to include key words e.g. initial, invert, single or double digging or rough rotavating were awarded full marks. </p>
<p>a)ii) The best answers stated that secondary cultivation is the preparation of the soil for planting or sowing and that the soil is not inverted. It is a type of surface cultivation where an even/uniform tilth is required. </p>
<p>b) Most candidates were able to specify the correct season when each technique is carried out i.e. late autumn/winter or early spring for primary cultivation and spring or summer or autumn or during the growing season for secondary cultivation.<br />
Negative effects for primary cultivation included loss of soil moisture and collapse of surface tilth resulting in the formation of a ‘cap’ for secondary cultivation. It was important for candidates to relate the negative effect to the soil for full marks. </p>
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		<title>Exotic Trend: Vertical Flower Beds</title>
		<link>http://www.edinburghgardenschool.com/2012/05/exotic-trend-vertical-flower-beds/</link>
		<comments>http://www.edinburghgardenschool.com/2012/05/exotic-trend-vertical-flower-beds/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 15 May 2012 10:24:51 +0000</pubDate>
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				<category><![CDATA[Articles]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[living wall]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[vertical flowerbed]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[vertical planting]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Guest post by Holly VicHammond Green thumbs know that gardening is never just gardening. It’s abstract art. It’s landscape design and architecture. It is about combining the right colours, tones, shades and textures into a stunning visual palette and then fusing that floral palette with the surrounding space. With their colorful Koi ponds, soothing water [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong><font color=#339999>Guest post by Holly VicHammond</strong></font></p>
<p>Green thumbs know that gardening is never just gardening. It’s abstract art. It’s landscape design and architecture. It is about combining the right colours, tones, shades and textures into a stunning visual palette and then fusing that floral palette with the surrounding space. With their colorful Koi ponds, soothing water features and intricate stonework, the Japanese have set the bar for Zen-like outdoor spaces. However, in order to create an innovative garden you don’t need to start sculpting bushes into animals like they do at Disney World, or plant a row of magical seeds like Jack and the Beanstalk. Vertical flowerbeds are a cutting-edge way to make your backyard look like a modernist painting.</p>
<h3><font color=#339999>Optimising Colour, Texture and Space</h3>
<p></font></p>
<p>From agro-towers to hanging plants, vertical gardening isn’t a new concept. It’s said to have originated sometime during the Roman Empire. Many of the historic palaces and formal gardens in Europe have a vertical feature. I recent years, &#8216;living walls&#8217; have also begun to make an appearance in many of our towns and cities. While such large installations can be costly and complex to construct, it&#8217;s possible to create a small living wall for your garden quite simply with a few basic materials. Whether you have a small garden or just looking to do something artistically innovative, vertical gardens optimize colour, texture and space.</p>
<h3><font color=#339999>How to Construct a Vertical Flower Bed</h3>
<p></font></p>
<p>Constructing a vertical flowerbed is like assembling a frame for a picture or a painting. First, you need to <a href="http://www.ehow.com/how_5131172_build-vertical-garden-living-wall.html" target="_blank">build the framework</a> out of wood. The shape and dimensions of the bed are up to you. Second, you need to fit and secure a back panel &#8211; this should be water resistant to ensure that water from the planting does not have an impact on your wall. After that, use a staple gun to secure a wire mesh screen. Finally, pour compost into the frame and pack it around the wire mesh. Finally, plant the flower bed &#8211; you can then hang it up, just like a painting, on the side of your house, garage, fence or whatever outdoor place you see fit. Where you decide to hang the flowerbed will enhance its overall aesthetic effect, as the eye will automatically be drawn to the background as well. In other words, the vertical flowerbed is going to look better hanging on a brick-lined porch than a swath of vinyl siding.</p>
<h3><font color=#339999>Now What Do You Plant?</h3>
<p></font></p>
<p>If you’ve gone the extra mile to create an exotic flowerbed, then be sure to fill it with plants and flowers that are out of the ordinary. In other words, you might have to specially order some flora and fauna instead of relying on the traditional flowers at the nursery. You can order some breathtaking specimens from around the world; obviously, you’ll need to understand their ideal growth environments and be sure to check the <a href="https://www.fedex.com/ratefinder/home" target="_blank">shipping quotes,</a> as certain plant choices may cost more than others. Small succulents would give your flowerbed a desert topiary feel. Traditional nasturtiums would also look beautiful. They have a longish vine and are similar to ivy, but have heads of bursting colour.</p>
<p>The vertical flowerbed is the type of feature that will have all your friends forgetting about the hot dogs and hamburgers at your garden barbecue this summer. They will too busy standing in front of your new exotic design, tilting their heads and contemplating it like a painting in the Museum of Fine Art.</p>
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		<title>RHS Level 2 Exam Question on Plant Respiration</title>
		<link>http://www.edinburghgardenschool.com/2012/05/rhs-level-2-exam-question-on-plant-respiration/</link>
		<comments>http://www.edinburghgardenschool.com/2012/05/rhs-level-2-exam-question-on-plant-respiration/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 15 May 2012 08:56:53 +0000</pubDate>
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		<category><![CDATA[plant cell]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[respiration]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[RHS Level 2]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Aerobic respiration occurs in the mitchondrion, which is an organelle found within  the plant cell. 
]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>From  R2101 PLANT CLASSIFICATION, STRUCTURE AND FUNCTION Level 2  Monday June 27th 2011. </p>
<p><em>Q.7. a. Name the site of aerobic respiration in the cell.</p>
<p>b. State the basic equation for aerobic respiration in words. </p>
<p>c. State how anaerobic conditions determine the efficiency of respiration.</em></p>
<h4><font color=#339999>Sample answers: </h4>
<p></font></p>
<p><em>a. Name the site of aerobic respiration in the cell.</em></p>
<p>Aerobic respiration occurs in the mitchondrion, which is an organelle found within  the plant cell. </p>
<p><em>b. State the basic equation for aerobic respiration in words. </em></p>
<p>Carbohydrate + Oxygen  ->  Water + Carbon Dioxide + Energy (ATP) </p>
<p><em>c. State how anaerobic conditions determine the efficiency of respiration.</em></p>
<p>Anaerobic respiration does not need oxygen. It happens when there is not enough oxygen for aerobic respiration, for instance, in a waterlogged or compacted soil. Here is the word equation for anaerobic respiration in plants:</p>
<p>glucose → ethanol+ energy</p>
<p>Anaerobic respiration is less efficient than aerobic respiration, and much less energy is released. This is because the glucose (or carbohydrate) is incompletely broken down.  In addition, ethanol, the by-product of anaerobic respiration is toxic and builds up in the cytoplasm, eventually leading to the death of the cell.  </p>
<p>You can find further information about respiration in plants on the following pages: </p>
<p>http://www.bbc.co.uk/learningzone/clips/respiration-in-plants/114.html</p>
<p>http://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/gardennotes/141.html</p>
<p>Tour of plant cell:</p>
<p><iframe width="500" height="375" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/ASYG1JQy7K4?fs=1&#038;feature=oembed" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></p>
<p>Plant cell organelles:</p>
<p><iframe width="500" height="375" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/bolakX221qY?fs=1&#038;feature=oembed" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></p>
<h4><font color=#339999>Examiners comments on this question:</h4>
<p></font></p>
<p>a) Most candidates were aware that the site of respiration is the mitochondrion. Some candidates stated ‘mitochondria cells’ incorrectly as mitochondria are organelles within living cells. A few candidates named various plant tissues. Long statements and descriptions were not required in this section of the question. </p>
<p>b) Candidates who provided the correct equation with all the inputs and outputs in the right order were awarded full marks. Glucose/starch/carbohydrate and oxygen are converted to carbon dioxide and water with the release of energy/ATP. Energy was commonly omitted from the word equation even though this is the key output. </p>
<p>c)Those candidates who stated that anaerobic respiration means ‘without oxygen’ and that the efficiency of respiration is reduced were awarded marks. Marks were also given where candidates provided some explanation of why this occurs i.e. carbohydrate is incompletely broken down so less energy is released; ethanol is a by product which is toxic and that this will eventually lead to cell/plant death. Additional marks were awarded where candidates included a situation in which anaerobic conditions occur e.g. waterlogged/compacted soils.</p>
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		<title>Creating Your Own Greenhouse</title>
		<link>http://www.edinburghgardenschool.com/2012/04/creating-your-own-greenhouse/</link>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 22 Apr 2012 07:35:43 +0000</pubDate>
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				<category><![CDATA[Articles]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[gardening advice]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[greenhouse]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Holly VicHammond]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Guest Article by Holly VicHammond If you are thinking about building a greenhouse, remember these three things: warmth, light and moisture. An effective greenhouse provides these elements consistently using tools such as lights and heaters to ensure healthy growth year round. Greenhouses come in a variety of shapes and sizes, but regardless of design, make [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Guest Article by Holly VicHammond</p>
<p>If you are thinking about building a greenhouse, remember these three things: warmth, light and moisture. An effective greenhouse provides these elements consistently using tools such as lights and <a href="http://www.sears.com/appliances-air-conditioners-fans-heaters/c-1020023?intShip=8" target="_blank">heaters</a> to ensure healthy growth year round. Greenhouses come in a variety of shapes and sizes, but regardless of design, make sure to include warmth, and moisture in your DIY greenhouse. The following tips will help you create an effective growing-environment for your plants.</p>
<h4><font color=#339999>Location, Location, Location</h4>
<p></font></p>
<p>The location of your greenhouse is crucial. You can put the greenhouse anywhere, but ideally, you want to make use of the natural elements as much as possible. This means sunlight, not shade. Pick up spot that is level for optimal growing land. Remember that dogs and greenhouses don’t mix, so stay out of high traffic areas like sidewalks and your dog’s favorite part of the yard.</p>
<h4><font color=#339999>Foundation</h4>
<p></font></p>
<p>You will need to set up a simple foundation. It does not have to be fancy; a square made from landscape timbers will provide adequate support. Cover the ground inside the timbers with landscape fabric to help keep out weeds and then fill the square with gravel for drainage.</p>
<h4><font color=#339999>Frame</h4>
<p></font></p>
<p>When it comes time to build the frame, a <a href="http://www.littlegreenhouse.com/?google&#038;gclid=CNeXhZG6vq8CFQ7sKgodXUL40Q" target="_blank">store-bought kit</a> comes in handy. Kits contain premade pieces that snap together to create the structure. If you decide to go without a kit, you will need to follow the instructions accurately unless you have experience in building design and construction.</p>
<p>If you opt for a complete DIY greenhouse, you will need materials such as pressure treated wood, fence posts or even PVC piping to complete the structure. Elements for the walls and the ceiling can include safe glazed panels or UV stabilized polyurethane plastic. Stage the greenhouse with a work area for potting and plastic or fiberglass shelves to hold your plants.</p>
<h4><font color=#339999>Temperature</h4>
<p></font></p>
<p>Keeping plants warm during the winter months is an absolute necessity. The greenhouse should be kept at least 55 degrees Fahrenheit in the cold season. If your building is large, you might consider gas heaters for a long-term solution. Set heaters at a safe distance from the plants and then place one or more thermostats in key locations away from both the door and equipment to get an accurate reading of temperature.</p>
<p>The structure should have vents in the ceiling to help circulate air during the hot months. In addition, you should use fans or an evaporative cooling system to keep the heat out during hot summer months. These small evaporative units are similar to air conditioners, but less expensive to run.</p>
<h4><font color=#339999>Lighting</h4>
<p></font></p>
<p>If you picked your location right, you have plenty of natural light, but you will need to add more. Ideally, you want the plants to have light at least 12 hours of sunlight a day. You can purchase plant grow lights or hang a socket three feet above the seedlings. Use a 125-watt high-pressure sodium bulb instead of the standard light bulb to simulate sunlight.</p>
<h4><font color=#339999>Humidity</h4>
<p></font></p>
<p>Maintaining proper humidity can be a challenge in a greenhouse, but hand misting should be enough for small areas. Keep spray bottles full of water around the room. As it starts to heat up, misting will add just enough water to the air. Larger structures might benefit from a watering and misting system. If your greenhouse is in an area that will accommodate a waterline, you can set up overhead misting with timers. Use the same line to create an irrigation system that will keep the soil moist but not flooded.</p>
<p>A greenhouse is a lot of work to put up, but once it is running, not that hard to maintain. If you are a gardener at heart, building your own greenhouse gives you the chance to grow all year round in a plant-friendly environment.</p>
<p>Holly is a dedicated green advocate and vegetarian. She loves keeping up with her garden and encouraging others to start their own gardens. She blogs on behalf of Sears and other great brands in her spare time!</p>
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		<title>Get Your Garden Ready for Summer</title>
		<link>http://www.edinburghgardenschool.com/2012/04/get-your-garden-ready-for-summer/</link>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 22 Apr 2012 07:02:47 +0000</pubDate>
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				<category><![CDATA[Articles]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[prepare your garden]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[summer]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[If you want to make sure that your garden is bright, healthy, and tidy in time for summer sunbathing and barbecues, then it's a good idea to start work now.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong><font color=#339999>Guest Article by Amy Fowler</font.</strong></p>
<p>Given the current, erratic, weather conditions, it may be difficult to believe that summer is on the way, but it is! If you want to make sure that your garden is bright, healthy, and tidy in time for summer sunbathing and barbecues, then it&#8217;s a good idea to start work now.</p>
<p>Take a look at this summer preparation checklist to make sure your garden preparations on track:</p>
<ol>
<li>Now that the weather is improving, take a look at your gates, entrances, and fences.  It&#8217;s common for litter to get caught under fences during the winter, so spend some time sweeping up and gathering litter.</li>
<li>Paint and weather treat fences, gates, and any outdoor furniture that needs spruced up.</li>
<li>Prune any large plants and trees that need tamed.  If you have any newly planted trees, don&#8217;t overlook these. </li>
<li>Early removal of overcrowded branches can ensure that the tree grows well during this crucial stage.</li>
<li>Mow your lawn, and tidy up the fringes in preparation for planting decorative borders.  When you&#8217;re weeding, be sure to get the roots of any weeds you find, to ensure that they don&#8217;t just grow back.</li>
<li>Treat your border areas with a generous helping of compost.</li>
<li>There are several flowers that are best planted during the spring period. Check your favourite flowers and put together a planting schedule so that you don&#8217;t miss the best planting periods.</li>
<li>Clean out your garden shed if didn&#8217;t do so over the winter. Dispose of damaged equipment, and make sure that everything is stowed away neatly and safely. Not only will this ensure that you don&#8217;t hurt yourself hunting for items in the shed, it will also make it easier to put things away, protecting you from casual thieves that may otherwise be tempted to run off with your lawn mower.</li>
<li>Make a shopping list of important items (seeds, fertilizer, compost, tools, spare lawnmower blades, etc), and pick up those items next time you&#8217;re passing by a garden centre.  You may be able to get some early sale deals.</li>
<li>This spring is proving unusually dry, so pay extra attention to watering your plants. If you live in an area with hosepipe bans, be sure to take a watering can to your newly planted flowers. Try not to let them dry out.</li>
<li>If you do get some rain, put some mulch on the wet soil &#8211; don&#8217;t go too heavy, about 5cm worth is ideal. This will cool the soil and encourage worm activity.</li>
</ol>
<p>This time of year involves a fair bit of hard work, but it&#8217;s best to sort out compost, weather proofing, and painting while it&#8217;s still nice and cool.  That way, when the good weather does hit, you&#8217;ll be able to relax in the knowledge that you&#8217;ve already done all of the heavy lifting, and your garden is now ready for some light weeding and planting, along with the best part &#8211; sunbathing on your perfectly manicured lawn, and enjoying looking at the beautiful landscaping that you worked so hard to create.</p>
<p>Written by guest author Amy Fowler on behalf of <a href="http://www.gardentopsoildirect.co.uk/products.asp?catID=2" target="_blank">compost suppliers,</a> <a href="http://www.gardentopsoildirect.co.uk/" target="_blank"> Garden Topsoil Direct.</a></p>
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		<title>RHS Qualifications!</title>
		<link>http://www.edinburghgardenschool.com/2012/04/achieve-rhs-qualifications-with-new-horticulture-courses/</link>
		<comments>http://www.edinburghgardenschool.com/2012/04/achieve-rhs-qualifications-with-new-horticulture-courses/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 18 Apr 2012 20:18:24 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Articles]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Slider]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[horticulture]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[qualifications]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[RHS]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Our new horticulture courses have been restructured and updated to meet the needs of today&#8217;s students. All of our courses have been created by expert tutors so you&#8217;re fully equipped to sit your exams and achieve leading RHS qualifications. EGS is listed as a course provider by the RHS and the Learning Skills Council. RHS [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Our new horticulture courses have been restructured and updated to meet the needs of today&#8217;s students.</p>
<p>All of our courses have been created by expert tutors so you&#8217;re fully equipped to sit your exams and achieve leading RHS qualifications. EGS is listed as a course provider by the RHS and the Learning Skills Council.</p>
<p>RHS qualifications are ideal for students considering a career change or wishing to take their horticulture creer to the next level. They are also a popular choice among keen amateur gardeners.</p>
<p>Our courses include all required study material, full support from an expert tutor, and carefully planned assignments designed to help you prepare fully for the exams.  </p>
<p>All of our RHS courses also include a full revision support program, meaning that you will be fully prepared for the exams.</p>
<a href='http://www.edinburghgardenschool.com/category/rhs-level-2-principles-of-horticulture/' class='icon-button search-icon'><span class='et-icon'><span>Explore Level 2 Courses</span></span></a>
<p><br class="clear" /></p>
<a href='http://www.edinburghgardenschool.com/category/rhs-level-3-principles-of-horticulture/' class='icon-button search-icon'><span class='et-icon'><span>Explore Level 3 Courses</span></span></a>
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		<title>January in the Garden</title>
		<link>http://www.edinburghgardenschool.com/2012/01/january-in-the-garden/</link>
		<comments>http://www.edinburghgardenschool.com/2012/01/january-in-the-garden/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 21 Jan 2012 10:29:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Articles]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[January]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[garden]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[gardener]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[january]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[tasks]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[As January rolls on, sunny afternoons and lengthening days remind us that in just a few weeks we will be sowing seeds and enjoying the flowers of early spring. Despite frozen soil there's still plenty to do in the garden, as long as care is taken.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>As January rolls on, sunny afternoons and lengthening days remind us that in just a few weeks we will be sowing seeds and enjoying the flowers of early spring. Despite frozen soil there&#8217;s still plenty to do in the garden, as long as care is taken. </p>
<p>It&#8217;s important to avoid working frozen or waterlogged soil, as this can cause permanent damage. When possible, avoid walking on waterlogged soil too. Instead, work from a plank or board that spreads the load. </p>
<p>Now is a good time to prune currants and gooseberries &#8211; especially new bushes or cordons. If you were too busy last summer to prune summer fruiting raspberries, there is stil time. Cut out last year&#8217;s fruiting stems at ground level and tie in the young growth, evenly spaced along the supporting wires. This is also a good time to remove old, outer leaves of <em>Iris unguicularis</em> to reveal their fragrant winter flowers as well as old leaves of Hellebores that have been affected by leaf spot. </p>
<p>This is also a good month for finishing off winter jobs such as tidying beds and borders if you have not already done so. Snowy or rainy days are the ideal time for indoor jobs such as ordering seeds and plants for spring, writing labels, and planning garden changes or improvements for the year ahead. Completing these task now will mean you are fully prepared when gardening begins again in earnest in early spring. </p>
<p>Many gardeners also use the long winter evenings as an opportunity to learn more about gardening. <a href="http://www.edinburghgardenschool.com/2011/08/rhs-level-2-principles-of-garden-planning-establishment-and-maintenance/">The RHS Horticulture Level 2 Garden Planning</a> is ideal if you would like to learn more about garden design and planting plans, while the <a href="http://www.edinburghgardenschool.com/2011/08/rhs-level-2-principles-of-plant-growth/"> Level 2 Plant Growth</a> will help you to build knowledge of plant health, propagation and soil cultivation in time for spring. </p>
<h4><font color=#339999>Tasks for January:</font></h4>
<p><strong><font color=#339999>Kitchen Garden</font></strong></p>
<ul>
<li>test your soil </li>
<li>apply lime if required, if your soil is not frozen or waterlogged</li>
</ul>
<p><strong><font color=#339999>Flower Garden</font></strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Check bulbs, corms and tubers in store</li>
<li>service your mower or have it done professionally</li>
<li>order seeds, bulbs and plants for the coming season</li>
<li>take hardwood cuttings</li>
<li>take root cuttings.</li>
<li>keep an area of water open in an iced over pond if there is a prolonged freeze – floating a ball on the surface before freezing is often enough to achieve this, but in very cold areas try standing a pan of hot water on the ice until it melts through</li>
<li>knock heavy snow off hedges and conifers if the branches start to bend the weight. If you leave it, the shape may be spoilt</li>
<li>insulate the cold frame for extra protection against the coldest weather.</li>
</ul>
<h4><font color=#339999>The Garden and Conservatory</font></h4>
<ul>
<li>Once a week check all plants and pick off any dead or dying leaves before they start to rot</li>
<li>ventilate on warm sunny days</li>
<li>start off overwintered chrysandthemum stools (roots) to provide cuttings.</li>
</ul>
<h4><font color=#339999>Plants at their best </font></h4>
<ul>
<li><em>Chimonanthus praecox</em> (shrub)</li>
<li><em>Eranthis hyemalis</em>(bulb)</li>
<li><em>Erica carnea </em>(shrub)</li>
<li><em>Erica x darleyensis </em>(shrub)</li>
<li><em>Galanthus nivalis</em> (bulb)</li>
<li><em>Garrya elliptica </em>(shrub)</li>
<li><em>Hamamelis mollis </em>(shrub)</li>
<li><em>Iris unguicularis </em>(herbaceous)</li>
<li><em>Ilex </em>(hollies)</li>
<li><em>Jasminium nudiflorum</em> (wall shrub)</li>
<li><em>Prunus x subhirtella</em> &#8216;Autumnalis&#8217; (tree)</li>
<li><em>Sarcococca </em>(shrub)</li>
<li><em>Virburnum x bodnantense </em>(shrub)</li>
<li><em>Virburnum tinus </em>(shrub)</li>
</ul>
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		<title>Ae &#8211; aecidiospores &#8211; history of gardening</title>
		<link>http://www.edinburghgardenschool.com/2011/12/ae-aecidiospores-history-of-gardening/</link>
		<comments>http://www.edinburghgardenschool.com/2011/12/ae-aecidiospores-history-of-gardening/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 29 Dec 2011 15:18:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Articles]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[definitions]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[History of Gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[aecidiospores]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[aecidium]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[aegeusaum]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[aerating roots]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[aeration]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[aerenchyma]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[aerial]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.edinburghgardenschool.com/?p=1203</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Definitions beginning with &#8216;Ae&#8217; &#8211; from the Royal Horticultural Society Dictionary of Gardening 1951: aecidiospores &#8211; &#8220;The spores formed by Rust fungi during their aecidial stage. They usually germinate quickly after they are liberated and are frequently able to infect a plant quite distant from that on which they were produced.&#8221; aecidium &#8211; &#8220;A globular, [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Definitions beginning with &#8216;Ae&#8217; &#8211; from the <em>Royal Horticultural Society Dictionary of Gardening 1951</em>:</p>
<p><strong>aecidiospores</strong> &#8211; &#8220;The spores formed by Rust fungi during their aecidial stage. They usually germinate quickly after they are liberated and are frequently able to infect a plant quite distant from that on which they were produced.&#8221;</p>
<p><strong>aecidium</strong> &#8211; &#8220;A globular, cup-shaped, or tubular structure formed by Rust fungi in which the chains of aecidiospores are produced. It ruptures the epidermis of the host-plant when mature, usually in spring or early summer, opening to release the ripe aecidiospores. Aecidium was once used as the generic name for a genus of fungi, but the organisms included in it are now known to be but one stage in the lives of the Rust fungi, and this generic name is no longer needed or recognised.&#8221;</p>
<p><strong>aegeusaum</strong> &#8211; <em>ae&#8217;geus -a -um</em> &#8211; &#8220;of the neighbourhood of the Aegean Sea.&#8221;</p>
<p><strong>aegyptiacusaum</strong> &#8211; <em>aegypti&#8217;acus -a -um</em> &#8211; &#8220;Egyptian.&#8221;</p>
<p><strong>aeneusaum</strong> &#8211; <em>ae&#8217;neus -a -um</em> &#8211; &#8220;bronzy.&#8221;</p>
<p><strong>aequalisise (aequi- in compound words) &#8211; <em>aequa&#8217;lis -is -e</em> &#8211; &#8220;equal.&#8221;</p>
<p><strong>aequi</strong> &#8211; &#8220;in compound words, equal, as in <em>aequitriloba</em>, having three equal lobes.&#8221;</p>
<p><strong>aequinoctialisise</strong> &#8211; <em>aequinoctia&#8217;lis -is -e</em> &#8211; &#8220;belonging to the equinox.&#8221;</p>
<p><strong>aerating roots</strong> &#8211; &#8220;Roots which, instead of ramifying through the soil, rise erect out of it, as is seen in the Mangrove and other plants on the muddy shores of tropical rivers and in <em>Taxodium distichum</em> when growing in wet places. These roots are covered in aerenchyma.&#8221; </p>
<p><strong>aeration</strong> &#8211; &#8220;Exposure of soil, not only on the surface, to free action of air; an essential to the growth of most plants.&#8221;</p>
<p><strong>aerenchyma</strong> &#8211; &#8220;Loose corky tissue former from the phellogen with large intercellular spaces through which oxygen passes for respiration to possibly submerged parts.&#8221;</p>
<p><strong>aerial</strong> &#8211; &#8220;growing in the air: aerial roots are those that appear above ground level.&#8221;</p>
<p><strong>aestivalisaum</strong> &#8211; <em>aestiva&#8217;lis -a -um</em> &#8211; &#8220;of the summer time.&#8221;</p>
<p><strong>aestivation</strong> &#8211; &#8220;Manner calyx and corolla are folded in the flower bud.&#8221;</p>
<p><strong>aestivusaum</strong> &#8211; <em>aesti&#8217;vus -a -um</em> &#8211; &#8220;developing in summer.&#8221;</p>
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		<title>Ad &#8211; aden- history of gardening</title>
		<link>http://www.edinburghgardenschool.com/2011/12/ad-aden-history-of-gardening/</link>
		<comments>http://www.edinburghgardenschool.com/2011/12/ad-aden-history-of-gardening/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 18 Dec 2011 16:10:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Articles]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[definitions]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[History of Gardening]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Definitions beginning with &#8216;Ad&#8217; &#8211; from the &#8220;Royal Horticultural Society Dictionary of Gardening 1951&#8243;: aden- &#8211; &#8220;in compound words, signifying a gland, as adenophorus, having glandular pedicels.&#8221; Adenogynusaum &#8211; adenogy&#8217;nus -a -um &#8211; &#8220;having a glandular ovary&#8221;. Adherent &#8211; &#8220;joined to, as one organ of a flower to a different organ.&#8221; Adhesion &#8211; &#8220;union of [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Definitions beginning with &#8216;Ad&#8217; &#8211; from the &#8220;Royal Horticultural Society Dictionary of Gardening 1951&#8243;:</p>
<p><strong>aden-</strong> &#8211; &#8220;in compound words, signifying a gland, as <em>adenophorus,</em> having glandular pedicels.&#8221;</p>
<p><strong>Adenogynusaum</strong> &#8211; <em>adenogy&#8217;nus -a -um</em> &#8211; &#8220;having a glandular ovary&#8221;.</p>
<p><strong>Adherent</strong> &#8211; &#8220;joined to, as one organ of a flower to a different organ.&#8221;</p>
<p><strong>Adhesion</strong> &#8211; &#8220;union of different organs.&#8221;</p>
<p><strong>Adiantifoliusaum</strong> &#8211; <em>Adiantifo&#8217;lius -a -um</em> &#8211; &#8220;having l. like a maiden-hair fern.&#8221;</p>
<p><strong>Admirabilisise</strong> &#8211; <em>Admira&#8217;bilis -is -e</em> &#8211; &#8220;to be admired.&#8221;</p>
<p><strong>Adpressusaum</strong> &#8211; <em>Adpres&#8217;sus -a -um</em> &#8211; &#8220;adpressed; pressed against.&#8221;</p>
<p><strong>Adscendens</strong> &#8211; <em>Adscen&#8217;dens</em> &#8211; &#8220;ascending; half-erect, or curving upwards from a nearly prostrate base.&#8221;</p>
<p><strong>Adsurgens</strong> &#8211; <em>Adsur&#8217;gens</em> &#8211; &#8220;rising erect.&#8221;</p>
<p><strong>Adult</strong> &#8211; &#8220;Full-grown, or of a full-grown plant.&#8221;</p>
<p><strong>Aduncusaum</strong> &#8211; <em>adun&#8217;cus -a -um</em> &#8211; &#8220;hooked.&#8221;</p>
<p><strong>Adventitious</strong> &#8211; Having a different mode of origin from the normal, as roots borne on a stem or on a part of the root which has laready produced roots; or shoots produced from roots or from the callus covering a wound.&#8221;</p>
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